Alvar Aalto, Robert Mapplethorpe, & Tom of Finland

Had a couple of days of touristing and culture with Sarah W.  One of my favourite works was this 'horizon' sculpture at the Kiasma gallery.  I can't tell you about the artist, its provenance, or anything else.  Only that this picture doesn't do it justice.  There was also a cool installation involving a black room with a gold-painted wooden floor that moved as you walked on it, plus a large rock that also moved (appeared to be floating over the floor) to the beat of its own drum.

Futher along there was a portrait exhibition that referenced the age of the selfie - as seen with the mirror arrangement below.  It was good fun.

I call this portrait "craft jesus" which is clearly a better label than whatever it's actually called.  There is something very creepy about his Laura Ashley skin and satin stigmatas... not to mention all the other features I could discuss, but will not.  Poor fellow seems to have a solid dose of chicken pox, which (along with his other afflictions) probably explains his gloomy countenance.

This guy is the partner of the artist (a Brit, I think) who took all these pictures of him, then used the photos to cover this twice-the-size bust.  It was weirdly powerful, I thought.  A bit like a 3D Hockney human collage effect.  SW commented that he had a few moles needing to be checked.  I hope he is OK.

I mentioned Messrs Mapplethorpe and Finland in the title.  Yes, readers, they were there at the gallery, but I took no pictures, merely enjoyed the retrospective.  It was well curated and interesting both in terms of social history and art.  So there.

Jumping way back in time we have the national museum.  First item is the marriage, or courting, rake.  An object of love to be crafted for, then gifted to, one's intended.  There were several on display - all delightful.

This was my favourite hat:  stripes, lace, ear flaps - who could ask for more?

These shoes were no doubt practical and a welcome addition to the wardrobe of the peasant classes, but I'm not sure how effective they were in the colder months.  There's a design shop in Helsinki making modern day felt versions.  I'm tempted, but at the moment the moomin sneakers have more of a hold on my affections.

What every girl and boy about town needs:  beaver purse.  Ok, maybe it's a racoon, or something else, but to me it will always be a beaver purse.  Purists welcome to make corrections in the comments section.

As seems to be the nature of every Helsinki building, old or new, the museum was lovely, including these stained glass windows in the stair wells.

As if this feast of ancient and modern was not enough, we headed to the end of tram line 4 to check out Alvar Aalto's house.  I thought the grassed tram stop was a thing of beauty and we hadn't even got as far as his house (just around the corner).

Apart from the money price, visitors to the Aalto house must pay in other ways:  blue booty covers to be warn at all times during the tour - including (weirdly, I thought) on the outside terrace upstairs after which you walked the dust and grime back into the house.  It was a shame as I'd specially warn my red birks which I thought was in the spirit of the visit.

This house was designed and built in the 30s.  At first Aalto and wife #1 lived AND worked here (the studio is below).  Later they built a separate studio which is also now owned and preserved by the Aalto foundation.  Sadly, wife #1 died at a fairly young age, in the late 1940s I think, and Aalto later remarried - wife #2. Both took his name; both were designers in their own right.

Alvar's desk and very cool phone.  I like to think that he took architectural emergency calls on it...

The downstairs living room, with Mrs Aalto's (#1) baby grand.  Some of the furniture is original, but not all.  The two cream lamps were designed by Aalto, but not the paper umbrella one on the piano - that was by a contemporary of his whose name completely escapes me.

Upstairs family room (if you will).  The portrait is of Aalto's mother.

They had very cool skylights - this one was in the bathroom.  There was another in the dressing room.  Readers, I give you form and function!

When they moved out here in the 30s it was mostly countryside, although there were a few established buildings, including a school across the field.  Now it's suburbia.  Aalto was very keen on the garden as part of the living arrangements of the house and paid attention to planting, terraces, etc.  Gorgeous vertical window to the left, and great use of creepers on the the house.  NB the cactus sitting above the radiator.  Smart.

Best pic of the lot (IMHO).  Who wouldn't want to live here?

Just a short five-minute stroll took us to the beach.  You can see the cafe in the background (lovely salmon filled roll and a beer for me; roll and coke for SW).  Some of the beach was rocky - as pictured - but there was also a sandy stretch.  We had a paddle.  Water was warm.  It thought it was a wee bit weedy and grotty, especially compared with home.  But the locals splashed around happily.  

End of culture report.