Tokyo - NOT a guest blog by Geoffrey

Your work is very well received, I argued.  The people would like to read some more.  But G decided he would rather (a) sleep and then (b) pack than blog, so you're stuck with me.  Some of you will have seen the first picture already, but these images capture something of the spirit of our new favourite place to eat.  It's probably just as well we are leaving as we have become seriously addicted to the food, booze, service and general atmosphere of this bar.  Also we nearly felt like locals by our third visit, with friendly greetings (we stood out a wee bit as the only gaijin in the joint) enthusiastic service and suggestions re food, etc.  Warm handshakes all round marked the conclusion of our final (sniff) dinner last night.

It wasn't all booze and food here tho - we took a spin around the outer reaches of the imperial palace and were lucky to see some of the staff abseiling into the moat in order to do some weeding...

As ever, the Tokyo metro is a breeze - it's the large stations that are a challenge.  No one ever tells you which exit/entrance to use and there are often about seventeen.  Fortunately there are shops, cafes, etc, down there and sometimes even friendly helper people. So, we never starved, and we always made it above ground, eventually.

Seeing a baseball game has been on my to-do list since before our last trip (which was sadly rained out).  This time, being wiser to the weather, we didn't book ahead, but rolled up on Thursday night on the off chance.  Not only did we get tickets to the Swallows (at home) vs the Giants (another Tokyo team) but we got brilliant seats near first base, once we had convinced the ticket-seller that we wanted the best PLACE to sit, rather than the best PRICE.  In fact, we paid quite a lot.  Worth every cent.  This pic shows the crowd walking towards Jingu stadium, many stopping along the way to buy food and drinks.  That's what we'll do next time, even though the beer girls and boys do an awesome job, bringing backpacks of beer right to your seat.

I didn't realise when I took this lovely selfie, but we were sitting in front of the boxes - so a very good position to see the game.  Everyone has a great time - lots of singing and chanting - but without any hassle.  Every seat has a beer (or other drink, I suppose) holder, rubbish is collected regularly and people look after their stuff.  It was heaps of fun.  A particular highlight was the 'lucky seven' routine everyone participates in at the seventh innings - it involves waving tiny umbrellas (swallows umbrellas) and singing a special song...

One small disappointment was being unable to buy a swallows t-shirt that proclaimed UNION IS STRENGTH.  Which it is.  Apparently they were for members only.  Bugger.  I am going to pursue this online once we're home.  Where there's a will, etc...

But enough about the baseball.  There was also culture.  For some reason I've omitted pictures of the temple at Asakusa, which we visited yesterday.  It was lovely to go back.  I first went there in 2009 with an Aotea College group and decided then that I'd like to come back sans kids, plus husband.  I suppose a six year turn around's not too bad.  

I can't include pics of the "Kyosai - master painter" exhibition either, as photos were banned.  But here's the ticket:

I include the paper clip, below, in honour of stationery heaven (or hell, I suppose, for some, naming no names, Geoffrey) Ito Ya, in the Ginza district.  Wow, what a glorious place.  I was very restrained tho, given our bulging luggage.

And so our 2015 adventure draws to a close.  If I can prevail upon G to make some concluding remarks while we wait for the plane there could be a final entry.  Otherwise, thanks for sharing the ride. It's been a blast.  See you in Aotearoa...

Smoking in Tokyo

I'd forgotten that you can't smoke outside in Tokyo but please light up in the restaurant. 

That aside, we had the best dinner. Assigned counter seats near the cook who (reputedly) speaks English (not much) we had a great night, aided by friendly staff and locals, plus two beers each and some sake for good measure. 

We've eaten a few mystery items and aren't entirely sure about the name of the bar. In any case, we'll be going back...

Tokyo, once again, we salute you 

It's a long way from Vantaa to Narita

Quite jet lagged right now.

Looking down our from hotel lobby (15th floor)

We've had a super yum tempura lunch, wandered a few local streets, checked out a couple of shops, been navigated out of Tokyo Station by a JR rail helper person (otherwise would probably still be down there trying to choose an exit), and fetched up back at our hotel keen for our 2pm check in to roll around...

[Finally get room. Three hours go by]

...

Not sure of our time zone arithmetic but we were awake (mostly) from 4am Helsinki Tuesday morning til 2pm Tokyo Wednesday. Got the speed wobbles...

Coming back is always so much tougher jetlag-wise... So those forty winks were just the ticket. 

Hopefully we'll see the palace, Asakusa, and some baseball, tomorrow; tho that very much depends on the rain situation. Timing our stopover on the shoulder of a typhoon doesn't bode hugely well on the weather front:

Kiitos, Finland

It's 5.27am. 

We've made it thru the no person's land that is Vantaa (only people on their way to somewhere else are there - and no one wants to be there, even the locals) and thru airport check-in and security. They didn't like my iPad or G's belt, but we prevailed. 

Now it's one last cup of bad coffee and a delicious cinnamon roll before the long haul to Tokyo. 

I've bought a new copy of a comet in moominland to read on the plane. 

Kiitos, Finland. You've been fabulous. I hope we see you again sometime...

Laundry, but not at the tin tin tango

Today, Sunday, was designated laundry day.  We found the tin tin tango - cafe with laundromat - on the locals app, and toodled there shortly after our very late breakfast.  What the app didn't mention is that the cafe, tho very nice and quite large, has only one washing machine and a long queue of locals.  Hmmm.  We returned to the hotel to consider plan B.  Geoff, undaunted, turned to Yelp and found another.  Thanks to google maps we knew to hop aboard the number 8 tram to Arabia.  Soon we were there - a proper laundromat with the least comprehensible instructions of any we've yet visited, ever.

Nonetheless, we prevailed and now have heaps of clean gear to see us home.  See below the interesting picture of some of their machines.  This laundromat is next to Bear Park, which has lovely karhu statues.  G might put a pic on facebook.  I'm getting niggardly with photos now, as my phone is starting to send me cruel messages about being out of storage.  Ouch.

Excitingly, on our return trip, having just bought our next all day ticket, an inspector boarded the tram.  It's an instant 80 euro fine if found without one.  It was lovely to finally see that tram officials exist, especially with newly minted tickets warming our pockets.  Our fellow passenger (I'm very sorry, madam) was clearly less engaged in the whole ticket auditing process, but I had only a moment for my stealthy pic and couldn't exactly ask her to smile...  As you can see from the happy face of the inspector her job is a rewarding one.

One domestic task done and dusted, it was time to buy toothpaste.  We bought this souvenir recyclable shopping back from our local K-market as well and, looking at our change, think the assistant may have given it to us.  Thanks, K-market.

Finally, a drink.  These are truly horrible.  As committed coffee drinkers we thought they'd be yum.  They are not.  Urgh.

moomin sneaker day!

I don't like to use too many exclamation marks - who does?  But, moomin sneaker day!  Yep, today they became mine.  Ulltimate scandi souvenir - blue and white moomintroll themed karhu brand sneakers.  Even seeing a primary school aged kid wearing a (red) pair hasn't dulled my enthusiasm.  But I'm jumping ahead... (nimbly, in my new #moominsneakers.)

It was sad to leave Turku.  It is starting to feel like the end of our holiday - and no one looks forward to that.  Turku and its archipelago have been lovely; plus we got to meet one of its locals, courtesy of Derek and his daughter-in-law (who is from Turku); plus we met a bunch of great fellow travellers along the cycle way.

But, it was lovely to arrive in Helsinki, know where we were, where we wanted to go, and exactly how to get there.  Trams, baby.  We love those trams.

Once we'd settled in at the Scandic Park (our Helsinki home away from home) and sorted out the moomin sneaker business, we were free to wander.  We snacked by the bay, then wandered down to market for the small fish, finally jumping (spontaneously and at the last moment) onto a ferry bound for Suomenlinna.  I hate to upset former Helsinki-ites (ie, the conference-people who are now back home and working) but you really missed a treat.  Not only is the island lovely - and very interesting - but it's included in the price of your public transport day pass.  A 15 minute ferry jaunt for the cost of a tram!  Wow - more exclamation marks needed...

We may pop back there tomorrow, to see the bits we missed.  Weirdly, on the ferry back, were uber-nerds of some kind, wearing matching outfits covered with sewn on badges, like scouts, but drinking. Turns out these are university guilds.  The colour of your 'overalls' is determined by what degree you are taking, and the badges mark exploits - just like scouts, etc.  Ours were in green, and they had a flag.  Apart from the fact that they were quite hairy and looked like gamers (and nerds) I was worried they might be some kind of neo-fascist thing.  Probably not.  When we arrived back from the island there were other nerd groups (in different coloured overalls) waiting to, presumably, form one large multi-hued nerd pack.  Oh well, good on them, etc...

As if that wasn't enough excitement we narrowly missed getting to join in a protest march against threatened govt child welfare and education cuts.  There were cops everywhere and lots of families with balloons and prams.  Very wholesome.  Unfortunately we were on a tram and unable to disembark quickly enough to join in.  Nonetheless, we were very pleased to see the poeple in action.

We have finished our day with some very tasty tapas at a nearby (spotted by locals) restaurant - or ravintola, for the Finnish speaking - and look forward to a leisurely start tomorrow.  Sunday is truly a Finnish day of rest, and the city will be very quiet, mostly closed.  However, thanks, once more, to our spotted by locals app, we have found a laundromat/cafe that should be open after 10am.  Happily, we will be able to complete our trip with clean clothes and without me having to do more hand-washing.  And kumbaya for that.

I decline the Baltic, snakes and book group

Let me just start by giving a big shout out to the local wifi.  Go the Finnish wifi.  Almost everywhere - strong - reliable - time to lift your game Aotearoa.

Also a couple of resolutions.  Plant more dill.  Learn to bake finnish cinnamon buns.

There was a snake. More later.  Yes, readers, I've been drinking.

Yesterday was a rest day.  We rested.  We walked the barefoot art installation forest walk (pics on instagram and facebook), we visited the 'beach' - ugh - weedy, algal, I decline the Baltic for purposes of swimming.  We visited Korppoo village by bicycle - we bought food for a dinner picnic - we had a hedonistic lunch at the Buffalo restaurant (also illustrated elsewhere), we found a geocache...

Today was day 4.  The last full day of the cycle tour.  To be honest we had low expectations, but in some ways it was the best of the lot.  The ferry rides were beautiful and the cycling, tho' more hilly, was the best of the week.

Now, here we are in Naantali.  Here is a blurry night photo.

Here is a dinner time evening sunset photo - very red and pink...  Dinner was fine - even when the waitress spilled quite a bit of red wine on G.  We were gracious - esp after G convinced them to make good the loss with more wine.  We left our waitress a tip along with much affirmation.

Here is Geoff picking wild raspberries for us at the side of the road.  He is my hero.  For this and so many other reasons.

Here, again, is the flag of Finland.  Get over it and stop selling us out you Tory bastards.  End of the political part.

Here are Geoff and Ward on the penultimate ferry ride...

Here is Eva (partner of Wart - citizens of Belgium) on the same ferry.  She has read Janet Frame.  So there.  Also, might start the first international chapter of our book group. (Did you get that, people, chapter?... nice.)

Here are Louise and Mike from somewhere in England... also on the ferry.  OK, from Warrington or somewhere like that between Manchester and Liverpool.

Here is the chruch at Nauvo.  All the churches have a ship.  They are lovely, straightforward buildings (plus chandeliers).

Here is the church from the graveyard.  Well-tended, as they all seem to be around here.

Here is our last selfie, taken shortly after viewing the snake, so I imposed on G's good humour.  Our barman at the hotel tells us it was the venomous kind.  Apparently there are two kinds in Finland. Very poisonous, and not poisonous at all.  He was sure ours was the first.  So pleased.

Here is the snake.

We have had a fantastic week.  Apart from our sore bums we are not keen to stop.  Certainly not best interested  in returning home.  Harrumph.  Good night.

5 ferries and a bicycle sprint to ferry #6 and the island of Korppoo

Today began with an easy, late start, and a delicious breakfast.  The breads and pastries in Finland are super yum.  Another post-holiday goal for me is to learn, once home, how to make the cinnamon rolls.  They are so good.  Tasted an extremely fine example during a stop at the village of Norby (sp?) this morning.

Most of today's six ferries were very small, cable ferries, covering just a few hundred metres between islands, but two were larger affairs, with timetables and, in one case, a need for speed.  We're all following the tour instruction sheets like a wee bible, so when it said you will have plenty of time to catch the 3.45 ferry from Inio we all believed it.  Well, jumping off the small ferry at 3.05, with an 11 1/2 km ride ahead we started to wonder.  Boy, we flew.  Well, as fast as you can fly on the heaviest bikes you can imagine, with no fitness, and sore bums.  So, yep, we were bloody flying, mate.  And we made it, with an easy 3 minutes to spare.  I've never been so happy to see the sign of the car falling into the water...

Other than that, the day involved easy, very short rides, across a mix of pasture, forest and thru tiny villages, with occasional courteous drivers (cars from the ferries) whizzing past.  Then it was just us and the country roads, taking us home to hotel Nestor - well, for the next 2 nights anyway.

From the ferries, we saw islands of all shapes and sizes, from a couple of metres square, to islands sufficient to hold one or two holiday homes, through to the big ones, like Houtskari and Korppoo.

Everywhere is blue - sea and sky.  And through the countryside it's all greens of the forest and yellow wheat fields.  We're off into the town for dinner tonight and tomorrow is our free day for suiting ourselves.  It will start with a sleep in - in our room, with its own shower (bliss) and named after one of the Hotel's cows.  Can't wait.

Aussie Geoff and Kiwi Geoff chat about life, the universe, etc while we wait for the boat. 

Church from the cemetery (Norby)

The last of our Estonian bread and cheese. Boat picnic. Well deserved. 

Overview. Turku Archipelago. We are here. Just to the left of my thumb. 

Cycling to Hakenpaa

Warning: your car may fall into the sea.  Do not be alarmed; this is not prophesy.  It is the charming sign alerting motorists they are close to a ferry.  This is important information when you are traversing the Turku Archipelago.

And that is exactly what we started to do, by bicycle, today.  Because the tour is self-guided, we didn't know if there would be anybody else, or just, us.  Readers, it is not just us.  We are nine.  Two kiwis (hooray), an aussie (more on him later), two brits (but you get that), two belgians and, to finish (bad pun alert), two finns (from Helsinki).  More stats:  there are four known current and former teachers in the group; one medical specialist (ENT, thanks for asking), a lawyer, an insurance guy, and the belgians who are an unknown quantity, plus one union official who gives no quarter.  None.

Unbelievably - to the extent that this will never make it into a novel - the readers would throw down the book and exclaim - what rubbish - who could expect me to believe this hogwash? - anyway, on with my true story.  The first of the group is Geoff, an aussie, former teacher and, get this, education consultant.  No, you exclaim.  Yes, I insist.  Plus, he likes cycling and drinks quite a lot of red wine.  Too scary?  I was scared.  He's not as nice as Kiwi Geoff, but he seems like a pretty good guy.  How could he not be with all those habits (matchy-matchy alert).

On the only ferry of the day, but a crucial one, as it was the ONLY ferry, leaving at 2.45pm, we observed a swallow's nest.  It hung from the bridge, and the swallows came and went, feeding their noisy kids, throughout the journey.  I'm thinking this speaks to a certain level of swallow intelligence... No pics tho - the swallows were too fast for me.

No swallows but one giant seagull and brood... NB helmet, Ma #safetyfirst

It's so quiet out here.  The beauty is calm and understated, less showy than home, but peaceful and lovely.  Also, there are cycle paths everywhere city-ish and when the paths run out the motorists are considerate and careful - so it's very refreshing to cycle through the countryside reasonably safe in the knowledge that the larger vehicles will keep their distance.

We spent ages at Teersalo waiting for the ferry.  The route notes put the fear of god into all of us about not missing the damn boat, so five of us had arrived at Teersalo by 12.30 - a mere two and a quarter hours before our boat departed.  (Kiwi) Geoff and I had pizza for lunch and some non-alcohol beer (responsible), while Aussie Geoff had a tuna salad big enough for the multitudes.  I  neither know nor care what the others ate so don't ask.

Turns out the cafe was a bit of a bogan magnet, with lots of soft metal and rock ballads pumping out across the (otherwise) calm waters of the harbour.  Saw some kids swimming in the weedy, murky, what-passes-for-a-beach-round-here, and at least one of their attached grown ups rocking a full head mud mask - perhaps the local dirt is renowned for its qualities... I don't know, but he rocked a cigarette whilst waiting for his face to dry.

Final piece of news - potentially in the TMI dept, so tender readers should stop right now - was that our boatshed accommodation includes 24-hour access to communal (by gender) showers and sauna. But that is all.  There is a toilet in our room, but no shower.  Aargh.  I had to have my first conversation with the Helsinki ENT starkers: "I can't stop the shower. How does it work?" 

- It's automatic, just step away.  

Oh. My. God.  I will never diss any shower that only I am in, ALONE, ever again, even if the water is a trickle.  This is my solemn oath.

So, one way and another, quite an epic first day of Turku Archipelago cycle touring adventures.  Tomorrow includes six ferry rides, so I'm sure there will be something to report.

We ❤️ Estonia

Hei, from the Merchant Ship Finlandia.  We have about 2 1/2 hours to kill while we cross back to Helsinki, so what better time to reflect on the loveliness that is Tallin and Estonia.

A few facts:

- 1.32 million people 

- many forests

- Survivor of endless bouts of imperial conquest

- Filled with quirkily humorous and cosmopolitan people (and a few drunks)

- Awesome speakers of English and their own (endangered) Estonian

- Easy going

- Rich cultural heritage 

What's not to like?  Also, apart from the 10 minutes of steady rain that fell on our heads while we waited for a taxi the night we arrived, we've had perfect weather.  I'll add that to the list:

- perfect weather

Also, G heard, at his conference, that their education system's not too bad either.  So I'll add that as well:

- good education system

I may have previously mentioned that some merry men on a Helsinki tram recommended Rataskaevu 16 to us as a Tallin restaurant not to miss.  We managed to bags a table on our first night and loved it so much we made a booking for our last night.  And we were not disappointed.  Not only was the red mullet (me) and beef (G) delicious, but they make a traditional Estonian bread pudding (featuring apples) that managed to be light and comforting and delicious all at the same time.  Plus, our waiter admitted to being a massive flight of the conchords fan - how much better can one dinner get?  This much better - he gave us some Estonian dessert wine on the house with our pud :)

Final piece of luck was, having reluctantly accepted an early booking, seeing a drunken party of 11 "hens" arriving for their dinner just as we were finishing our meal.  The staff were looking quizzical and we were not unhappy to be heading out for our last walk around the old town as they staggered in.  Even so, I'm sure those 11 hens had an excellent time - everyone is made very welcome at Rataskaevu 16.  Just remember to book.

Walking through the old town we found new streets and sites - perhaps we will have to come back.  Sadly, the Tallinn contemporary jewellery gallery had been lurking here all along and, now closed, was lost to me.  G greeted this information with surprising fortitude.  I think the lambskin driving hat episode (purchased at some cost while he watched the rugby) has made him wary...

As I write the ferry is pulling away from the quay and the man on the speaker is telling us something - I don't know what.  What I do know is that Tallinn is a cracker...

We hadn't even intended to visit yet it's been a real joy... Everyone visit Estonia. You will not regret it!

Kariorg by tram

Lots of pictures today.  Here goes...

We started with the number one tram to Kariorg, where there are lovely gardens - both formal and informal - and a museum.  As you can see, it's a gorgeous day although the wind has a bite to it.  If you buy tickets on the tram you have to supply exact change.  It goes into a little swing box for the driver (who's behind a locked door) and she takes the money and sends the ticket back through.  We coached some other tourists through the process on the way back.  An older Englishman wearing socks and comfort sandals found the whole thing mystifying, as though the little money door was in some way automated (nope), and couldn't quite grasp that the tram driver would most likely only do the ticketing work when the tram was NOT moving.  It's an honesty system on the trams, backed up with a 40 euro instant fine if an inspector finds you without a ticket.

It's been a while since we had a selfie.  And the gardens were so pretty and the sky was so blue and, etcetera.  Geoff didn't take too much persuading (quite a bit) and it was well worth the effort - especially now I notice the fountain spray exactly between our heads, as though we've bombed our own photo.  Ka pai.

Inside the museum which was, as G observed, nice and small (so no museum leg to contend with) there was a mix of exhibitions - including a "real or fake" display that was very cool - and decorated rooms.  The place was originally built for Peter the Great (I think), and variously used as a summer place for holidaying Russian royals; later housing the president (?) of Estonia; then the German governor under Nazi occupation; then the president or Estonian leader again; finally an art gallery and museum.  I think it went something like that (didn't take notes - only skimmed the blurb).

There were lots of Flemish paintings in the collection.  I particularly liked this angel zooming in from on high.  Posssibly an annunciation pic - I've not remembered, despite making a wee mental note at the time.

Here, G demonstrates the correct statue fondling technique.  Please note that he's wearing a special glove (provided free, please do not take away) so he can enjoy the intricacies and curves of this artwork.  There were several pieces available to touch - and many visitors were enjoying the opportunity this exhibit afforded.  I think I've previously observed that Estonian's have a quirky and engaging take on life...

Above we see Catherine in military garb.  I'm not sure what else to say, but she (and her helper) rather caught my eye.

Many of the rooms still have the old heaters.  Obviously no longer working, but very impressive.  We saw these in Helsinki and St Petersburg as well.  G noticed the fire door and instantly opened it.  I'm reasonably certain they were not hoping for people to do this, but there you have it.  I'm relieved to report that the door did not fall off - no harm was done - nor was G noticed by the nearby docent.

There were lots of interesting plates on display, from various periods, but I've never seen one featuring a factory before.  Surely a worthy inclusion...

And now, another nature report:  G was thrilled to see a squirrel alert (below), but later disappointed to find that the one pictured was in fact the only squirrel we saw.

Behold the leafy and informal part of the park.  This went on for quite a few acres and was very lovely.  We went for a bit of a stroll and, after what seemed a relatively short time, found ourselves at the beach.

This statue dates from the early 20th century - possibly commemorating the Russian events of c1905 (?) but we we'ren't certain.  

The beach.  Ducks and seagulls (and a few sparrows) for the avian minded... NB ferries in the background. 

Also, masses of unpleasant weed.  The kids in the distance (two of only three people observed actually in the water) were making weed castles.  There was so much of the stuff and it looked really nasty.  They had huge handfulls of it and seemed to think it was a fun project to cart it up to the sand and pile it up.  Yuck.  No paddling for me.

Wandering back to the park I realised that I'd wandered past this without even noticing.  How?

This is an example of one of the older wooden buildings that used to be found throughout the outskirts of Tallinn.  At least, that's what Geoff told me.  This one's for sale.  A nice do-er upper, right by the park and only a five minute tram ride into the city.

Yes, we had lunch.  This is my goat cheese salad.  Delicious.  Eaten at Gourmet Coffee, found courtesy of the excellent Spotted by Locals app.

Inspired by the goats cheese (and the SBL app) we trammed it back to town and hunted down this cheese shop.  The best one in town (and possibly the world... ok, would you believe NE Europe?) where we sampled and bought several cheeses for our dinner picnic.  We have a local cumin cheese, a Dutch gouda/parmesan combo - that's how the shop guy described it, anyway - and a French blue. We have local dark bread, a lovely pinot noir, some prosciutto, and a single pickle in its very own jar.  Very much looking forward to that...

The single pickle (€0.90):